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How to Tame Your Parrot in 5 days-The Secret!
“Our aim is to keep your pets on a balanced physical and mental diet. The happier your pet is, the stronger the bond between you and your pet, the more laughter you share with your pet and the easier training becomes ! Begin changing the life of your pet to a better one and watch how that pet changes your life!” – Hani
Taming a bird is all about being patient and challenging your patience beyond its potential
Taming your parakeet is not difficult and it can take up lots of your time. If you wish to tame your parakeet you must know you are in for a commitment during and after the process of taming. A tamed parakeet will seek your attention and you will be required to spend time with it daily. Many owners do not realize how demanding such a small parrot can be. If you plan on working late hours, or traveling, it is recommended you keep two or more budgies and avoid taming. A tamed parakeet can easily develop psychological problems if you fail to meet its emotional demands. Most parakeets are monogamous, which means they mate for life. Because of this, they will wish to interact with you as must as possible.
To start the process, you need to let your parakeet settle into its new home. A nervous parakeet needs time to adjust and needs time to understand its surroundings. He also needs to locate its food and water dishes, reduce his anxiety, and feel secure and confident about his environment. This usually takes around two weeks. A good sign the budgie is feeling comfortable in its environment is how it acts. A nervous and unsure Budgerigar will sit frozen on its perch. Before the taming process can begin it is important you are able to see the parakeet feels secure about its environment. This means the parakeet will not flutter or show signs of intimidation while you are in its room (It will go about its business while you are present).
Placing the budgie in a busy room is ideal to start the taming process. Many times budgies are placed into quiet rooms upon their arrival, but if you look at the bigger picture this technique seems to be counterproductive. A budgie that has been separated will have to readjust to humans and this causes excessive stress. A busy room will help speed the taming process and will help the parakeet understand that humans are not predators. In a sense, you are conditioning him for human interaction.
Getting to it…
Once the parakeet has learned to accept your presence and it is active around you, you can start to gently open the cage door and place your hand inside the cage. This needs to be done consistently and regularly throughout the day until the parakeet can handle your hand inside the cage. During this processes of taming, avoid eye contact and sudden movements. The parakeet may flutter around the cage but do not react. This exercise needs to be done until the parakeet shows no fear of your hand. It can take weeks or days. Just be consistent and practice doing this.
Once the parakeet can confidently deal the presence of your hand inside its cage, gently take your finger and try to make the parakeet step up on your finger. Most parakeets will jump and cling to the cage bars. Try to position your finger below the breast line and gently push up. It is important you not jerk your hand back during this stage. If you have a fear of getting bitten, then use a dowel. The parakeet needs to step up on your finger and needs to remain there for a while. Again, this needs to be practiced until the parakeet can do this without hesitation.
If your bird is stepping up on your finger inside its cage, then slowly try to coax him outside the cage while he is on your finger. Do not be surprised if the parakeet decides to quickly head for a perch or the cage bars. Just continue trying to coax him outside the cage. Once out, you can take the parakeet into a room that is not familiar, such as a small bathroom, While in this unfamiliar room, try giving your parakeet a treat. You might try step ups or just gently holding him on your finger while you recite nursery rhymes. During this process keep your voice soothing and mellow.
This needs to be done several times a day and within weeks your parakeet will start to come around. make sure to make it feel like everything going to be okay.- Personal Trainer han
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How to Stop Your Bird/Parrot From Biting!
Bored of it chewing on your fingers?
The most important thing to remember is when your bird bites simply show no reaction. Do not scream, do not shout and most importantly DO NOT punish your bird. That is negative reinforcement and we do not use that when training birds. Some people do in fact use it and that only hurts the bird and makes the training counter-productive which is bad !
3 WAYS !
1-Twist technique usually works most on smaller bird species :
Tell the bird not to bite in a calm voice. Be sure to use the same words every time you tell your budgie not to bite. At the same time as you give the verbal command, shake the bird gently by moving your hand or arm or wherever the bird is perched. Don’t shake too much. Just do it enough to catch the budgie off balance so it is distracted from its biting behavior. It may take some time, but if you apply this method consistently the budgie will learn that biting is not acceptable and that it causes an unpleasant consequence (being put off balance).
2-Verbal command works more on larger bird species :
Eventually, if you notice that your bird’s body language shows that it is about to bite you stop and engage in a long stare in your birds’ eye, and say “no” firmly yet in a normal voice. In time your bird will understand that “no” means “no biting” and this will help it learn quickly.
3- Using a replacement : offer your bird something to nibble on or something to chew.
Reward it when it chews it and it will learn that when it chews your hand their are no treats. When it chews something else there are !
– Personal Trainer Hani
How To Teach Your Parrot Some Great Tricks To Impress Your Friends & Family!
To teach your parrot to shake,
simply blow on its face and when it shakes its head, click and reward. If you are having trouble getting the shaking action, just switch the direction you blow. Try the cheek, nostril, eyes, etc, until you can find a place that gets it to shake every time. I had made an attempt to teach Truman to shake over a month prior but it didn’t seem to be working so I gave up. But recently I tried again and it worked. I probably just wasn’t hitting the right spot last time. So definitely be patient and try blowing in different places around the head before you give up.
I suggest teaching the trick out and away from the cage. Most preferable is a training perch because it keeps the parrot at a convenient height and distraction free. Otherwise you can try doing this on a chair back or table. Although it can be taught with the parrot on one hand, it is really preferable to have both hands free. This way you can use one hand for displaying the cue (shaking your finger or whatever you want it to be) and then use the other hand to hold the clicker and the treat. I like to say the cue, shake my finger, and then blow. I both say the command and show the visual command to the parrot so that it can learn both cues together. Eventually I can use one or the other to cue the trick.
To Teach Your bird to jump,
This exercise is easy to teach if your bird already understands a recall and is an eager and confident flier. Your bird also should have some practice with simple trick training: targeting objects. In other words, your bird should know to follow and touch a target on cue. There are many different methods to teach this exercise, but I have success with this one:
I place two kitchen chairs about 3 feet apart. I stand between them and perch the bird comfortably on the back of the kitchen chair to my left. I place a treat in my closed fist, and then I position my fist under the back of the chair on the right. I say to the bird, “Fly to the right.” The first time, my Senegal parrot did not understand this cue, so I lured her a little bit with my hand. The minute she flew to my hand, I placed her on the back of the chair, said “Good,” and gave her the treat.
I placed another treat in my closed fist and held the fist under the top of the chair that was on my left. I cued her, “Fly to the left.” Once she understood that treats were in my hand, she flew to my hand, which was just under the back of the chair. Because of the position of my hand, she had to land and perch on the chair – the target. I praised and rewarded her
How To Teach Your Bird to Flip, (We all Love this one, Eh?)
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